October 2
When we tried to fill our water tank in the morning, we discovered that we left the tap adapter of our hose in Hervey Bay. We found a temporary solution for filling the tank, but it meant that our first stop that day would be at a hardware store. Luckily, there was a huge “Bunnings” store in nearby Nerang, and with help from both kids we managed to locate the necessary adapter in the endless “watering” isle.
Another stop at the local supermarket, and we were on our way to Lamington National Park through the Canungra valley. The town of Canungra, through which we entered the valley, seemed full of Harley Davidson cyclists. One Lamborghini was also in sight. For us, its main significance was that we were able to renew our supply of ground coffee.
After Canungra, the road became narrower, winding up and occasionally turning into a single lane, with road signs indicating which side needs to give the right of way to the other. These were quite helpful, as there was a lot of traffic in the opposite direction. We saw some significant bushfire on an opposite peak, but the air was clear where we were heading.
Upon arriving at the Green Mountains campsite, we were surprised to find the site we pre-ordered and paid for occupied by a small sedan car. We managed to squeeze in besides that car, hoping that the owners would arrive shortly, and examined our site’s immediate vicinity. In the brush just below our spot we saw several Red-backed Padamelons. We had seen another species of these small macrpods (namely “large legged” – the family that includes the kangaroos, wallabies and related jumping marsupials) before, but these were always fleeting glimpses at dusk or during the night. Here the padamelons seemed totally relaxed at our presence, and were active in broad daylight. Also seen within a 20 meter radius were Eastern Whipbirds, Rufous Fantails and Russet-tailed Thrushes – the latter a new bird species for us.
By the time we finished acquainting ourselves with our bird neighbors, two other neighbors arrived. A young boy and girl came to the car occupying our site and were disappointed to discover that we had reserved that site. I commented that this one of the handful of sites in the camp reserved for large caravans, as clearly indicated on the sign, and that all sites in the camp required reservation. They were not impressed, and explained that they just arrived, and decided to take a shower before attempting to book the site. Although I admired their high standards of hygiene, I may have looked somewhat angry, as they quickly cleared off, allowing us to finally park the motorhome properly.
Wishing to have some outdoor activity after a long day on the road, we took a short walk in the direction of Python Rock in the waning late afternoon light. Along the temperate rainforest trail we saw many birds, including Log-runners, Whipbirds and Scrub-wrens, and heard the calls of Albert’s Lyrebirds but couldn’t see one. When we returned to the camp the chilly evening was turning into a cold night, and we decided to have dinner inside the caravan rather than outside as we usually do.
October 3
It rained throughout the night, and the next day was very rainy too. We stayed mostly in the caravan, with short excursions to the restrooms (coupled with charging our computers in the restrooms shed) and to attempt some poor bird photography in the rain. Nevertheless, we celebrated Passover with improvised Gefilte-Fish, made of seed buns and canned mackerel, and duly decorated with carrot slices. The traditional apple and honey was better than ever, thanks to the superb rainforest-flowers honey, and the wine was in itself worth a celebration.
https://youtu.be/zqchrNlofAA&rel=0
October 4
We woke up to the call of birds, and found a beautiful male Satin Bowerbird peeping through our window! With such an opening display, we had no choice but to dedicate the morning to some birdwatching. We started in the camp and walked towards the O’Reilly reception area and park visitor information center. The O’Reilly family had a property in that area several years prior to the national park’s declaration, which isolated their land from the outside world. Since 1926 they have been operating a guesthouse, which has become an attraction to birdwatchers as a base for viewing many of the park’s 160 or so species of birds. They chose the black and gold Regent Bowerbird as their logo, and several of these magnificent birds indeed paid us a visit when we stopped for breakfast at one of the picnic tables.
We took a short walk in the canopy trail, and climbed a high observation tower built on a tall orchid-covered fig tree, from which we could see much of the rainforest canopy from above. Before heading back to the guesthouse area, we passed through the “mountain gardens” – a small botanical garden with local and imported rainforest flora, maintained by the local “Green Mountains Society”, like the canopy boardwalk. We left a donation to this commendable society in one of the boxes provided for that purpose. On our way back we were lucky enough to see a Noisy Pitta – a beautiful and very shy bird (don’t be fooled by the name) that spends most of its time on the shady rainforest floor, and is rather seldom seen.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch… the bird feeding session was at its peak. Trays of bird feed could be bought at the O’Reilly gift shop for a few dollars, and attracted flocks of Crimson Rosellas, King Parrots, Bowerbirds and Red-browed Finches. Looking around, we also noticed a pair of Superb Fairy-Wrens that didn’t directly partake in the feast, but were no less attractive, albeit considerably smaller, than the parrots and the bowerbirds.
After every grain of seed was eaten off Daniel’s feeding tray, we were finally able to proceed on an afternoon walk. We chose a trail going down through the rainforest towards a small mountain creek, meeting it at a point with the appealing name “Picnic Rock”. Given the late start, we decided we could walk just part of the way, then climb leisurely up to arrive back before sunset. Pretty early in the trail Lilach and Daniel, who were in the lead, came across a male Albert’s Lyrebird crossing the road. Tamar and I didn’t see the bird, but we all heard it calling in the forest. When I produced an approximate imitation of its call, it seemed to answer it. We followed its calls for a while back along the track, until at some point we stopped hearing it. We thought it must have decided that I was a bigger male and chose to concede the contest…
The kids were determined to walk to the Picnic Rock, and Daniel’s stamina potion proved useful again. At the end of our rest stop by the Picnic Rock, he found the necessary small pebble and young green leaf, cast his spell and put the potion in the shade for it to take effect. Indeed, we soon felt light footed, and the climb back was quick and effortless. We arrived in time to see the Fairy Wrens in the waning light, and watch the sun and moon change shifts.
October 5
We did some more birdwatching in the morning . Among the highlights were a swallows nest, and an active Satin Bowerbird bower. Sitting quietly in the shade nearby and watching the bower, we saw the male arrive with a piece of blue yarn in its beak. It carefully placed this new gem among the other blue treasures with which it decorates the area around its bower in order to entice females, then reordered a twig or two in the bower wall before taking off again – probably to look for more building materials or decorations. Before leaving, we wanted to visit Python Rock, at the end of the trail we didn’t finish on arrival, although in the meantime we discovered (to my mild disappointment) that it was not named like that for the abundance of pythons in the area, but because it resembled the head of a python. It was well worth the visit. Shortly after the furthest point we reached on the first day, the path emerged from the rainforest into an open eucalypt forest, then into a heath dominated by tall Xanthorrhoea flowering columns, and soon the view changed to a panorama of a wide gorge below the heights on which we were situated, with the beautiful Morans Falls in the background. With some imagination, we could even understand which of the geological formations in front of us gave the track its name.
We had some necessary purchase to make at the O’Reilly souvenir shop. Primarily, Daniel wanted “something with the regent bowerbird on it” in order to remember this beautiful bird. Though he was willing to compromise even on a postcard or a small hand towel with a stitched image of the bird, we eventually got a mug with a beautiful painting on it. After completing this important task we said goodbye to the beautiful birds (including a rosella that flew into the souvenir shop, perched on a cupboard and examined the goods), and headed back to the coast, where we reserved a spot at the BIG4 caravan park in Hastings point, “across the border” in New South Wales. We were told that the reception closes at 8pm, so we were very happy to get there even before seven. Only when I checked in did I discover that in NSW they switched to Daylight Savings Time, and the hour of our check in was 19:59… We celebrated the timely arrival with a BBQ dinner.
Family Trips 