After a good breakfast and a morning dip in the pool (for Daniel) we drove a short distance to the nearby Mangrove boardwalk by the shore. We learned about the different species of mangroves that occupy distinct ecological niches and form easily distinguishable floral communities that differ in the shape of the roots, the structure of the branches, and even the color of the leaves. On the mud between the mangrove roots crawled hundreds of crabs of many species, and the chimneys that some crab species build around their burrows were a common and peculiar sight. Some of the crabs were very colorful, whereas others were rather dull in appearance. We were surprised to see many crabs cutting fallen mangrove leaves into small pieces and dragging them into their burrows, as we thought crab diet consisted solely of small crustaceans, worms and the like. Turns out that mangrove crabs indeed supplement their diet with plant material, though I still don’t know how exactly they ingest it and how much nutritional value they derive from it.
Our next destination was Kaeng Krachan National Park, in Phetchaburi province. With an area of 2914 km², it is Thailand’s largest National Park, and most of it is inaccessible. We read conflicting information about whether or not the park is open at this time of the year, but since we found some bungalows really close to the park’s entrance we decided to head there anyway, assuming some interesting flora and fauna can be found around the park too. Somewhere along the road to the park, after we passes a gas station, I recalled that we needed to refuel. We were also low on cash, and since the bungalows we ordered accept only cash, I asked everyone to keep their eyes peeled and let me know when they see another gas station or ATM. Tamar asked what an ATM looks like, so I showed them the next one we passed by, but didn’t stop there so as not to spoil the game. Needless to say, no ATMs or open gas stations (it was a Saturday) were spotted from that point on…
Around 20 km before reaching the park I broke down and went online in search of nearby ATMs and gas stations. After a failed attempt at what was supposed to be a gas station but turned out to be a rusting shed that maybe hid a gas pump some time in history, and another one that was indeed a gas station but was closed, we made a detour to the Chang Hua Man Royal Project, where both ATM and gas were supposed to be available. The Royal Projects were initiated by the former Thai King, Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama the 9th), to promote rural communities, and the one in Phetchaburi is an experimental farm project, combined with an array of wind-power turbines. We found the gas station closed, but the local guards pointed us to the ATM. on the way to the park we did eventually find an open gas station too. Approaching the park, the hills became taller and more densely forested, and light rain started falling. When we reached the bungalows, the rain was pretty steady, and the owner, armed with a huge umbrella, walked in front of our car and showed us the way with to our bungalow.
The bungalow itself was rather dilapidated, with very basic shower and toilet facilities, and three large beds that continuously collected small debris falling from the ceiling. As Daniel put it: “It’s great – two beds for the kids! But the bathroom is not the best place here”. The proprietor informed us that she will be cooking for us at the restaurant in the main building, and we said we’ll see her later for dinner. In the meantime, while the rain persisted outside, we engaged in a fierce session of our favorite new game – Love Letter”, and by the time we finished it was around 7pm. I went up to the restaurant to check the options for dinner, and discovered that dinner orders are usually expected till around 18:30, and the only other family currently staying in the place was already finishing its meal. The owner kindly accepted my apologies for the late start, and we had a peaceful dinner on the high balcony, watching the geckos playing around on the ceiling.